Видео

I'd like to see some videos on how to install 100mm PIR tongue and groove board, especially to external corners. Do you tape them? Window openings with a wall tie on every block course

Whats the black stuff that's stuck on

Biggest load of bollix to work with stay clear is best option

How are you stopping the thermal bridging from the ground to the foundation upwards to the block work?

Let's all earn fuck all while we spend hours on the insulation

More shite we won't get paid for

Would it be better to insulate between the battens with 20mm cellotex?

no replies from the makers of this video - pointless if no tech support.

Is this method suitable for solid walls? Thanks!

'Promo sm'

Informative video.. .I'm a truss designer it's a pleasure if I can help in any case of trusses designing

You can render down to ground level in Ireland?

Those drawings are neat.. Are they available on your website?

Why batten rather than dot and dab or PU foam adhesive?

Yeah your right biggest expensive load of crap on the market been bricklaying all my life. It’s not even well made and not easy to fit.

External walls with no cavity need dpc sheeting .

Do these sheets have an integral moisture/vapour barrier?

Should be dpc behind timber lats to stop dampness and rotting timbers 🤦

Do need to paint the wall with a water proof medical also?

Horrible stuff

Instead of fitting all the battens then fitting insulation between them, it would be better to alternate.. batten..insulation..batten..insulation. That way you can fit battens and insulation tight up against each other.

Needs an air gap.

In full load concrete block, one red "rawplug" MAY withstand a 150Kg weight. There is a video on this in RUclips. Aireated block such as Thermalite is much weaker at about 30Kg here ruclips.net/video/0Lx7uaboPdw/видео.html . Then we have the dry lining board, Gyproc dry lining screw in their white book www.british-gypsum.com/technical-advice/faqs/053-what-are-the-screw-fixing-centres-for-partitions-ceilings-encasements.

I think this is really god. I'm not exactly in the profession but it seems to have good principles and is very well created

May I ask a question here please? Hope someone reading this will reply. I live in West Sussex, UK. I have a single brick wall shed at the bottom of my garden. Flat roof with plywood and felt on top. I would like to know if I should just build a timber stud wall (with 2x4) and put PIR insulation boards (making sure I leave at least 10cm gap between insulation boards and wall for air circulation), then board it up? Or should I put (attach using some kind of glue?) a breather membrane all around the inside walls of my shed, and then build stud wall and insulate as I first mentioned?? Please reply, and advice would be much appreciated. Kind regards. Jacobs

I hope you don't expect brickies to build like that

DPC under your battens.

Some load of crap in this video.

What about around the window reveals and no vapour barrier between the baterns and brick.

Excellent illustration

This is a far cry from the 'Dot and dab' approach widely practiced in the UK. Even the model that Xtratherm shows in their video clips appear to suggest this is acceptable but there are increasing concerns by research institutions about the thermal or cold looping as a result of the gap between the dabs, the wall, and the board and again this is despite the recommendation of a continuous ribbon around the entire wallboard perimeter. I wonder what Xtratherm has to say about this. The Passivhaus standards do not recommend this approach.

Isn’t it advisable to leave an air gap to prevent cold spots

Can you skim over it?

hi dear ! the video is done with which software ? thanks ! :)

I'm trying to hang curtain rails on 50mm insulated plasterboard mounted directly on to the cavity block wall with mushroom fixings. Any tips on what to use?

excessive amount of screws

Do I need to leave an air flow between the felt and the first layer of insulation in the rafters

nice

how do u go over lintels then with the over hang of dpc?